Asia Travel News Commentary, Reviews, and Insights

The Dwarika’s Hotel  in Kathmandu is located 20 minutes from the airport and is within walking distance to the famous Hindu temple, Pashupatinath. It fronts a busy avenue and doesn’t look like much from the outside. However, once you enter, you are transported into a serene and splendid atmosphere of terracotta bricks and hand-carved wood that contrasts greatly from the busy street outside. The hotel was designed to showcase the ancient craftsmanship and art saved from destruction by the founder Dwarikas Das Shrestha to ensure it’s upkeep in a commercially viable manner. What resulted is a luxurious and unique setting that truly deserves its heritage hotel status.

The entry is via a small, covered pullout from the main street from which you enter the hotel into an open air courtyard that looks out on the hotel grounds. Concierge staff are there ready to assist you and direct you to the reception area and indoor lounge appointed with elegant furniture.

The hotel hosts two restaurants. Krishnarpan is a renowned Nepalese restaurant specializing in Nepalese cuisine presented in set meals of 6 to 20 courses. These meals attract many not staying at the hotel—especially trekkers and climbers looking for a splurge after their expeditions. The Toran offers Continental, Chinese, and Nepalese dishes in an elegant atmosphere. Alfresco breakfasts are available in the courtyard terrace restaurant.

Two bars offer contrasting atmospheres. The Library bar is what you might expect, a relaxing, quiet atmosphere among books and comfortable chairs surrounded by brick walls inset with shelves of traditionally carved wood—a great place for meeting and planning Himalaya adventures. It also screens nightly movies and documentaries for guests. The Fusion bar overlooks the pool, provides a pool table and darts, and offers live Jazz and Blues performances.

The small pool looks more like a fountain or ancient bath and is more appropriate for sunbathing than swimming. Massages are offered in room as the sauna/spa facility was not yet completed at the time of inspection. There is no fitness center. The House of Treasure gift shop sells handicrafts and souvenirs. A full-service travel agency is also available onsite.

A business center provides office equipment such as facsimile, photocopying machines, email and internet access. Full secretarial service is also available. A conference hall can accommodate 100 people. Though very few tourists would ever consider driving in Kathmandu, a small parking lot is available across the street from the hotel.

An elevator is available for rooms on the upper floors in the main building. A wide hallway separates the street side wall of the hotel from the rooms, so street noise is not noticeable. Rooms are very spacious and uniquely decorated with beautifully carved furniture, area carpets, and hand-woven fabrics with traditional Nepalese designs. Each room contains a daybed, coffee table, and a desk with a telephone and data ports for internet access. Televisions would be an intrusion to these rooms and are not included, but can be requested. Beds are either 4-poster king-sized or two twins.

The baths are also very large. In the newest wing of the hotel, each bath contains two sinks and a large sunken tub with separate shower and fine toiletries.

The buildings with rooms are two stories high and all rooms look out onto the inner, beautifully landscaped courtyard. The presidential suite is a multi-tiered ensemble of floors with lots of windows and outside terraces, all of which create a spacious feeling, but are not necessarily the best use of space.

All rooms are smoke free. Only tea, coffee, and snacks are available via room service. The staff is truly friendly, well-trained, and helpful.

This hotel outshines all others in Kathmandu for its architectural charm, art, and museum-quality craftsmanship and attention to detail. While not the best location for souvenir shopping or mingling with the trekking crowds, shuttle services are provided, and taxis are cheap and plentiful. The Yak and Yeti or the Hyatt near the airport have the corner on big, western-style hotel luxury and amenities, but most travelers go to Nepal for the kind of cultural experience you can only get at Dwarika’s.

For more information: www.dwarikas.com

Filed under : Hotel Reviews, Nepal

2 Comments »

While the US-based airlines have begun charging for checked luggage, Asia-based airlines have not yet gone to the that extreme. However, the local airlines may have more restrictive luggage allowances for their domestic flights than the internationial flights you take to and from the US to get there. The most typical restriction on domestic flights in Asia is 20 Kilograms (44 lbs.) per person, compared to a 2-bag, 32 kg. (70 lbs.) for international flights to get to Asian gateway cities from the US and Canada.

Here’s a breakdown of the domestic luggage allowances for different airlines in Asia:

China:

All Domestic Airlines

Carry-on baggage
The maximum Carry-on baggage allowance for each economy class passenger is 5kg. First class passengers can have 2 pieces of carry on luggage. All other passengers can carry on only one piece. The size may not exceed 20×40x55cm. Carry on baggage in excess of the limit is subject to an excess baggage fee and must be carried as checked baggage.

Check-in Baggage
Adults and children are entitled to a free checked baggage allowance of 40kg, for first class, 30kg, for business class, and 20kg, for economy class while traveling on domestic airlines in China. No free baggage allowance is granted to infants. Groups traveling together are able to combine their baggage allowance if they check in together.

SE Asia:

Thai Airways (luggage restrictions)

Checked Baggage:
Economy Class passengers:           20 kg. (44 lbs.)
Royal Executive Class passengers: 30 kg. (66 lbs.)
Royal First Class passengers:         40 kg. (88 lbs.)

Royal Orchid Plus Gold Card members are entitled to check an additional 20 kg. (44 lbs.). Royal Orchid Plus Silver Card members can check an additional 10 kg. (22 lbs.) of luggage.

Infants (not occupying a seat) are allowed 10 kg. (22 lbs.) excluding one fully-collapsible child stroller, pushchair, or infant-carrying basket.

Cabin Baggage: Maximum weight is 7 Kg. (15.4 lbs).

Bangkok Air (and Siem Reap Airways) (luggage restrctions)
Checked Baggage: Maximum weight is 20 kg. for adult and child / 10 kg. for an infant
Cabin Baggage: Maximum weight is 5 kg. (11 lbs).

Vietnam Airlines (luggage restrictions)
Checked Baggage:
Business Class: maximum 30 kg. of checked baggage (number of bags isn’t regulated).
Economy Class: maximum 20 kg. of checked baggage (number of bags isn’t regulated).

Cabin Baggage: 1 piece, 7 Kg. (15.4 lbs) in economy class; 2 pieces, 7 kg. (15.4 lbs) each piece.

Bhutan:

Druk Air
Checked Baggage:
Economy: maximum 20 Kg. (44 lbs) subject to 2 suitcase-sized pieces per passenger.
Executive: maximum 30 Kg. (66 lbs) subject to 2 suitcase-sized pieces per passenger.

Cabin Baggage: 1 bag, the weight of which is included in the overall weight restrictions.

India

Jet AirwaysChecked Baggage:
Economy: 25 kg. (55 lbs) per person, largest bag no more than 32 Kg. (70.4 lbs)
Premiere: 35 kg. (77 lbs) per person, largest bag no more than 32 Kg. (70.4 lbs)

Cabin Baggage:
1 hand bag, 7 kg. (15 lbs.), plus 1 laptop bag or purse

Kingfisher Airlines

Checked Baggage:
Kingfisher First: 35 kg/77 lb
Kingfisher Class: 25 kg/55 lb
Kingfisher Red: 15 kg/33 lb

Cabin Baggage:
1 hand bag, 7 kg. (15 lbs.), plus 1 laptop bag or purse

Indian Airlines

Myanmar

All domestic airlines:
Maximum Baggage Allowance: 20 Kg. (44 lbs) per person

Filed under : Cambodia, China, India, Myanmar, Thailand

2 Comments »

My company, Red Lantern Journeys, is the main sponsor and organizer of 3 Summits for Nepal’s Children. 2008 is our third year of climbing volcanos in the Northwest to raise money for charities that serve children in need in Nepal. This year we climbed Mt. Hood in Oregon, Mt. Rainier in Washington State, and for the first time, a mountain in Nepal, the 21,000-foot Chulu West. A total of 25 participants raised $13,810 this year to break our previous fundraising records. Over the last 3 years we’ve raised over $30,000!

The funds raised have gone to the Mitrata Orphanage and the Children’s Center for Study and Development, both in Kathmandu. I’m on Mitrata’s board of directors and can’t say enough about the organization and the work they are doing with their children.

Bill Harrison, the leader of the Chulu West Expedition and fundraiser for Mitrata, took the photos to the right when the 5-member team visited the orphanage prior to departing for the Annapurna region on October 12th.

I’ll keep you posted on our plans for next year, but I may be doing a Red Lantern Journeys ”President’s Adventure” in Ladhak in Northern India with a side trip to Kathmandu to visit the Mitrata Orphanage.

Filed under : Nepal, Trekking and Climbing

0 Comment »

Quality accommodation in New Delhi is becoming hard to get these days. Tourism and business has increased so much over the last 5 years causing a dire shortage of quality hotels, especially in the 4 and 5 star range. This shortage has driven up prices, which now rival those in London or New York City.

As a result, the government has passed laws to encourage local homeowners to become licensed to operate as bed and breakfasts, or homestays. In September, I was fortunate to experience one of these new bed and breakfasts, the Saubhag Bed and Breakfast in the New Rajinder Nagar district of West Delhi.

It’s operated by Mrs. Meera Das, a former teacher. She is a wonderful host and will have her staff prepare a wonderful breakfast, do your laundry, and make sure you have everything you need during your stay. She doesn’t like to accept just anyone off the street into her home, so it’s best to get an introduction if possible…If you book your trip with Red Lantern Journeys, we can do that for you.

Her home itself is in a nice, safe neighborhood, just a 15-minute drive from Connaught Place. It’s three stories high with a beautiful garden courtyard where you can enjoy your breakfast. The 2nd floor has two guest rooms with attached modern bathrooms and comfortable beds. There is a common living room for the guest as well with a side kitchen where you can make coffee or tea or heat something in the microwave. The guest living room is tastefully furnished and has a library of books to select from to take with you on your travels. A computer with internet access is standing by for you to catch up on your emails in the evening.

All in all, I’d say that the Saubhag Bed and Breakfast was nicer than any 3 star and many 4 star hotels in India in terms of quality of accommodations, furnishings, and bathrooms. The only thing that you won’t get is a swimming pool or a business center. However, the service that you get is going to be so much better.

I’ve heard and read about many other exceptional bed and breakfasts in New Delhi and other parts of India. We also stayed in another home stay in Palakaad district of Kerala–a 200-year-old ancestral home that I’ll write about later…

Filed under : Hotel Reviews, India

1 Comment »

I was just in India on a trip with 8 other travel agents from various countries including Canada, Poland, France, Australia, and India. We were touring Kerala after attending the Kerala Travel Mart. Normally, I don’t like traveling with people in a group…I’m more of a loner and like to experience things on my own terms. This trip helped me understand why. We were staying at a 200-year-old ancestral home that had been converted to a guest house. The owner, a wonderful host, had requested that, as we were visiting the local community, we not give anything to the local children; that giving money, candy, or pens encourages begging. He said that if we felt the need to help these chldren, that we could deposit money in a box in his house that would be used to help fund the needs of a local school he helped support. I agreed and was of the opinion that all enlightened tourists, especially experienced travelers like travel agents, understood that handing out anything was really just exploiting the locals.

I was wrong. Our group was visiting a village potter to see a demonstration of how they make the local clay pots.  One Polish woman in our group had brought candy from home and handed it out to the village children so that she could take picures of them…I asked her to stop, citing the requests of our host…but she thought he was just talking about giving money, not candy or pens.

Later in the trip, our group was touring the Backwaters of Kerala and taking a smaller boat through some narrow waterways lined by local houses. Our Indian host of the tour, had brought a bag full of pens and started throwing them to local kids of school age. Soon we were being followed by every kid around…essentially, we could no longer enjoy the normally serene boat ride. Our host, a vice president of one of India’s largest tour operators, wasa encouraging begging in his own country! I cringed when I saw it and complained to him later about it, but I don’t know if it went took root or not.

Giving handouts to children is a persistent problem. If you want to help the locals in the places that you are visiting, please give to an organization that has the ability to ensure your efforts go to a good cause.

Filed under : India

0 Comment »

Trekking and climbing are my passions. I’ve been a volunteer mountaineering instructor for over 20 years now. I stay well trained and our Red Lantern Journeys trekking agencies in Nepal, Bhutan, and Tibet have well-trained guides. It’s important to me that the safety of our clients is a number 1 priority. Training is important and it came to good use for me and a group of my friends last weekend. Read on…

On a mountaineering outing in the Olympic Mountains in Washington State, our climbing group (9 of us!) was eight miles from the trailhead when we encountered a climber (Jeff) running towards us down a snow slope. He managed to explain that his partner (Jake) was injured badly in a 500-foot fall down a gully and needed help. After getting the details about where the injured climber would be, Bill Harrison and I immediately took off to find him with our full-packs and a climbing rope. Len Kannapell went with Jeff to find the ranger that was stationed in the nearby basin or to hike out for help if they couldn’t find her. Luckily for everyone involved, they found her in less then 10 minutes–helping some researchers trap and tag marmots. She (21-year-old Bridgett Jamison) had a radio and was immediately able to call for a helicoptor. Len, Jeff, and Bridgett immediately followed us to look for the injured climber and eventually caught up with us in the bottom of the gully that the injured climber was in. The others in our group followed us and took charge of making camp and were there ready to provide backup if needed. 

After mucking around the bottom of the gully on steep scree slopes, moats with waterfalls, and steep snow, we finally spotted Jake about 300 feet above us between some steep snow in the gully and the cliffs.  Len and I climbed up some rocks and had to rappel down 60 feet to reach him. Bill came a few minutes later with extra gear and a heavy duty space blanket. He went back down to be with Jeff and in a position on a small knoll about 300 below us to provide support as neccessary. Bridgett then joined Len and I after using her radio to help guide the helicoptors to us. We stayed with him, monitoring his vital signs and trying to keep him warm until the helicoptors could do their thing. While we were with him, he was concious and moving his arms and legs but couldn’t speak. We had found him about three and a half hours after encountering Jeff, but by that time it was near 8 pm.

The first helicoptor showed up just before we found him,  but it took a few minutes for them to locate us. They had to leave once to refuel, returned an hour and 15 minutes later but were too heavy to maneuver safely in the narrow confines of the gully, so left again to lighten their load. They came back right at dusk, but despite a good try, their tether was not long enough to reach us. Fortunately, the Emergency Operations Center had called in a Navy helicoptor from the Whidbey Island Naval Air Station as a backup…it was a Blackhawk. So it came in to try and reach us, found out they too were too heavy to maneuver, left to lighten their load, and returned 15 minutes later.

Each time a helicoptors hovered over us, it blasted us with cold winds and blowing dust and rocks from it’s downdraft. But each time it left, our hearts dropped–not knowing for sure if it would come back that evening, forcing us to spend a cold night in the gully with Jake.

Finally, the Blackhawk was able to lower a Search and Rescue guy with a litter down to us, bouncing off the cliff walls before he was able to scamper over to us. We got Jake on the litter, strapped him in and they were able to lift him off. By that time it was after 11 pm and quite dark. It took us another hour and a half to climb up out of the gully and hike over to the camp where the rest of our group was waiting for us with food and water.

Our group provided sleeping bags and tent room for Jeff and Bridgett. The next day after retrieving all of the gear from the rescue site, we all hiked out the 9 or 10 miles to our cars where we were finally able to nurse our sore legs and feet and deliver Jeff to his very worried parents. 

Jake had fallen several hundred feet down that steep gully and his last impact knocked off his helmet. He was taken to Harborview Hospital with a serious brain injury, but amazingly no broken bones, except some cracked vertebrae. He was in a medically/drug induced coma for the first few days and on a respirator. They had to drill holes in his skull to help reduce the swelling. But the last report is that he is responding and they will be removing his medication and respirator.

We were all amazed that the rescue could be done by helicoptor from the steep narrow gully that we were in, and then at night to boot! We were told later that the first Coast Guard helicoptor had a pilot who was inexperienced and was uncertain about the close quarters and that was why they had to leave. The Navy Helicoptor pilot was really skilled, even using night vision goggles that have poor depth perception. At one point, his rotors were 5 feet from the cliffs as he was lowering the rescuer and litter to us. 

Jeff is still only 17 years old, but he really is the hero in all of this. He kept his cool–helping his friend by putting him on a pad and covering him with sleeping bags to keep him warm and leaving some food and water within reach. He made the right decision to go out alone and get help right away. Somehow he managed to climb alone the rest of the way down that dangerous gully—he even fell once and slid 100 feet and banged up his knee a bit. But he continued and after encountering our group returned with us to the accident scene. As a result of his efforts, his friend was evacuated the same day from that very remote location. His Hurculean efforts may have very well saved Jake’s life.

KIRO TV News interviewed me, the helicoptor crew, Jeff, and Jake’s parents, and they have an article and video on their web site:

http://www.kirotv.com/news/16825702/detail.html

Here are some of my photos from that trip and the rescue.

http://www.redlanternjourneys.com/galleries/index.php?cat=8

The climbing club I’m affiliated with is the Boeing Employees’ Alpine Society (Boealps), which has yearly Basic and Intermediate mountaineering classes open to the general public. These classes are the best of their kind in the Pacific Northwest.

Filed under : Nepal, Trekking and Climbing, Uncategorized

1 Comment »

Following the riots and demonstrations, China promised to open Tibet by May 1st. They finally got around to it on June 24th, 2008, three days after the Olympic Torch was carried through the empty streets of Lhasa. Although Chinese tourists have been allowed to travel since April, the extended ban on travel there has no doubt hurt the local economy. China is more strict about their travel rules. It used to be that a tourist could travel around on their own a bit once they got into Tibet. Now you need to be accompanied by a guide on an itinerary arranged by a travel agent and deviations won’t go over well.

China’s leaders don’t seem to understand the West; but the West doesn’t understand China either. Typical Chinese people are extremely proud of their country and believe that Tibet is historically part of it. It’s not just the government…Note that since the Tibet riots, many Chinese on instant messenger programs like Yahoo and MSN started using a symbol of solidarity, like an “I Heart China” symbol next to their name. It’s a reaction to the negative press about China that they see around the world. I believe that nationalism taken to an extreme is usually bad. It’s fine to be proud of your country, but not at the expense of other countries or even your own citizens. The Chinese government doesn’t seem to get that.

If You Travel to Tibet
There are only two ways to get into Tibet–either via Nepal or China. My general travel recommendation for Tibet is that trekkers going to Mt. Kailash or Mt. Everest Base Camp should go via Nepal. You’ll be able to hire much better Sherpa guides with better equipment and cooks than you can get in Tibet. For cultural tours, going through either China or Nepal is ok. If you do go, take a lot of photos of the hundreds of ruins of destroyed monasteries and encroaching Chinese culture. Send me some and I’ll post them here.

Filed under : China, Nepal, Tibet

0 Comment »

The article below illustrates how corrupt officials can and will take advantage of the demand for tourism in developing countries. Milo Anderson, a journalist and recent graduate of the University of Washington in Seattle, spent a month in Cambodia last January as part of a study-abroad program looking at social work there. After the program, he stayed for another week to research this story and witness the poverty and suffering caused by the overzealous developers, corrupt officials, and police. His article has also been printed in the Northwest Asian Weekly. Thanks Milo and Northwest Asian Weekly for letting me reprint it here!

——————————–
    The white sands of Otres Beach sit two miles south of Sihanoukville, Cambodia.  It’s less crowded than the larger beaches closer to downtown.  Tourists from Europe, Australia and the United States, along with Cambodians on vacation, come to enjoy the sun and the warm ocean and the small, open-air, thatched-roof bars and restaurants that line the sand.  At night, roman candles and Christmas lights reflect off the black water.  

    Of the 100 families that lived there, 80 remain by the side of the road, within sight of the concrete barrier surrounding the site of their old village and a few hundred feet from the tourists on Otres Beach.  They have nowhere else to go.  

    The evictions in Spean Chhes are one example of a widespread problem in Cambodia.  The Cambodian League for the Promotion and Defense of Human Rights (LICADHO), has documented dozens of cases of land grabbing by wealthy, well-connected individuals and companies throughout the country. 

    Cambodia is one of the poorest countries in the world, with a long history of violence and famine.  In the past two decades it has become a major recipient of international aid money and has developed a tourism and garment industry alongside the traditional subsistence agriculture still practiced in much of the country.  Economic development has raised land prices. 

    Manfred Hornung, a monitoring consultant with LICADHO, said it’s easy to see why Spean Chhes, located next to an attractive tourist destination, was targeted for development.  “It’s prime real estate.” 

    Hornung said Phung Ravy, wife of a parliamentary advisor, went to Spean Chhes and offered the villagers money for their land.  When they refused, she claimed to already hold the titles.  Ravy could not be reached for comment, but Hornung said her nephew told LICADHO staff his aunt took this money and bribed government officials to act on her behalf. 

    Hornung said the nephew was trying to mediate the dispute, and thought the story would demonstrate his aunt’s good intentions.  “The most dangerous thing here is that people take it [corruption] for granted,” he said. 

    According to Horm Theurn, who cleared land for a farm in Spean Chhes 15 years ago with her family, when the police and soldiers came to demolish the village they said “It’s your fault because before when we offered you money, you didn’t take it.  Now we take the land for free.” 

    She said she has no idea what will happen to her and the other families.  She said they want to return to their land, but they are afraid they will be shot. 

    Villagers were also worried about their relatives in prison.  Fourteen men were charged for fighting the police and soldiers with slingshots, rocks and glass bottles.  One man escaped arrest, five were acquitted, one who used a machete was sentenced to four months and the remaining seven men were given the lightest sentences possible. 

    But when the prosecutor appealed their convictions, the men had to stay in jail awaiting their new trial.  After intense lobbying by LICADHO and the UN Office of the High Commissioner for Human Rights, the Appeals Court finally heard the case on April 3, and the men were released a week later. 

    Hornung said the criminal cases against the villagers were meant to intimidate them and distract them from pursuing a civil case to get their land back, and it’s a pattern he sees in other land disputes.  “The government is very successful in keeping people busy getting out of prison,” he said. 

    According to a 2001 land law, if someone has possessed land uncontested for five or more years before the law was passed, they have the right to claim ownership before a cadastral commission. 

    However, according to Hornung, no court or commission has ever addressed the issue of land ownership in Spean Chhes.  And since residents were not allowed to remove their possessions before their houses were destroyed, they lost documents that may have proved how long they lived there. 

    “We don’t talk about the rule of law in this office,” Hornung said.  “It’s just practicalities.” 

    The governor of Sihanoukville, Say Hak, who organized the eviction, could not be reached for comment.  The information officer for Cambodia’s National Authority for Resolution of Land Disputes, Chum Bun Rong, was unable to say who resolved the question of ownership of the land, or how they reached that conclusion.  He also didn’t know what the government plans to do about the villagers living by the road. 

    The humanitarian organization M’Lop Tapang provides basic medical assistance to the evicted villagers.  Setha Thouch, a team leader with M’Lop Tapang, said the children have been hardest hit by the evictions. 

    During the summer rainy season, Thouch said, the ditches fill with water and many children develop skin diseases.  In the dry winter months cars, trucks and tourists riding in tuk-tuks—small three-wheel taxis—create clouds of red dust that cover everything.  Respiratory diseases are common, he said. 

    Hornung said the unwillingness of Cambodia’s leaders to respect their own laws undercuts the mission of aid agencies. 

    “They knew how to make a living there,” said Hornung.  “Now they are slum dwellers.  This is man-made.  This is not the poverty in this country.” 

 –Milo Anderson
——————————-

Filed under : Cambodia

0 Comment »

My company, Red Lantern Journeys, has been marginally affected by the Nargis Cyclone in Myanmar. American visits to Myanmar have been just a trickle anyway due to the recent crackdowns against monks protesting and the continuing house arrest of Aung San Suu Kyi. Yet, I’m enraged by the willingness of the Myanmar dictatorship to let their own people suffer. On the other hand, I’ve been extremely impressed by Pandaw River Cruise’s efforts to raise money (over half a million dollars!) and convert their own river cruise ships to hospital ships and supply carriers and to donate their use to charities distributing relief. They’ve also used the extra money to purchase a motorized barge that will be converted to a floating medical clinic plying the rivers of the remote upper Irawaddy after the need for cyclone relief has passed. Please visit the Pandaw web site for more detailed information about their amazing effort. I’ve never met him, but Paul Strachan, the founder of Pandaw, is now a hero of mine. Read Paul’s blog for an amazing insight to what’s happening in Myanmar.

Tourism is still alive and well in Myanmar, and the locals are desparate to see people return. Hotels in Yangon have recovered and other areas of the country outside of the delta area were unaffected and are as beautiful as ever. If you haven’t been to Myanmar, it is one of the most beautiful countries in SE Asia with wonderful people. Go and visit and come back and tell their story to everyone you know.

Filed under : Myanmar

1 Comment »

I just got back from the Thailand Tourism Forum in Bangkok. I had just enough free time, 2 days, to visit a tailor to have a custom suit made. Bangkok and many other Asian cities are great places to visit a tailor for custom made suits, shirts, sports coats, and other clothing at a great value. But it’s best to be prepared and understand the process before jumping in and taking advantage of that $99 offer. Here’s a quick guide on what to expect.

In almost any big Asian city, shop after shop of souvenir sellers, t-shirt vendors, jewelers, and tailors beckon you to come in and “just look.” But beware, don’t go in unless you really want a suit and are willing to spend $300 and up for a two piece suit with a decent quality fabric. Anything less than that and you may as well get one off the rack at K-Mart.

Most shops are small, but some may be part of a larger chain. It doesn’t really matter for your purposes. All are just sales outlets with bolts of fabric that can take your measurements and send them to a factory for the actual cutting and sewing. Some may even be quite high-tech now. They will store your measurements in a database, and you will be able to order new suits or shirts or pants by email and credit card.

The Negotiation

The manager or owner (whoever has the authority to negotiate) will ask you what you are looking for. You tell him a suit or a sports jacket but that you’re just looking for now. He’ll engage you and be quite friendly and offer you a cold beer. He’ll ask you to sit down and show you a photo book of models wearing different styles of suits to find out which ones you are interested in. If you engage, you’re hooked and well on your way to a new suit.

Once you select a style (1, 2, or 3 buttons, double or single-breasted, collar type, back-center or side splits, etc.), he’ll talk to you about the fabrics. He’ll show you the difference between real cashmere wool and fake cashmere wool fabrics (also known as polyester) by burning a small sample with a lighter and then proceeding to assure you that he only wants the best fabric for you and that the $99 price is based on the polyester fabric. You’ll succumb and agree that you really want the real wool fabric.

Note that these guys are not paragons of style and don’t do a good job advising you of the right style of suit or jacket for your purposes. But they are good at leading you to make some decisions.

During this preliminary process of discovery, the tailor will avoid giving you a price, but once you decide on how many suits, shirts, ties, etc. He will finally put together a package price for you. This is finally when the negotiation begins. Bargain hard and be firm and be willing to walk away., he may throw in extra shirts or ties to finally seal the deal.

Measurements and First Fitting

Once you agree to a price, the tailor will take your measurements. You need a minimum of  2 days for the process, but 3 is better. Within the first day, you will have your first fitting. You will return to the shop to meet the real tailor who will have a rough cut of the major pieces. They will check to ensure that the breadth and length are working properly and chalk and pin the exact spots for the final assembly. You’ll come back to the shop the next day for a next fitting.

The Second Fitting 

At the second fitting the suite is complete and the tailor or shop owner will do their best to convince you that it fits correctly when you try it on. But, here’s where it’s a good idea to have someone with you to validate your concerns with too tight shoulders, too long sleeves, or whatever the problem might be. Be firm and thell them what you want done and they will acquiese. However, if the suit really does fit at this point then you’re done!

The Final Fitting

After the final alterations are made, the tailor will likely want to deliver it to your hotel. This helps reduce the possibility that you might reject it. He may even send someone who doesn’t speak very good English, so if something is wrong you will have a hard time articulating it. However, if it still doesn’t fit right be firm and request more alterations. It may require a visit to the shop one more time.

Lessons Learned:

• While they can produce a custom suit in less than a day, it’s best to have at least 3 days available to ensure you get the best fit.
• Have all of your meetings in the shop because they will be more likely to try to please you there.
• Get the best fabric you can afford.
• Use tailor that will save your measurments and you can order new clothes online at anytime after that.
• For womens clothing, allow more time for additional fittings. The consensus is that you’ll need 4 to 7 days.

My Tailor - Max’s Fashions

This article is based on my experience at Max’s Fashions in Bangkok. Located at No. 1/3 Soi 3 Sukhumvit Rd. Max can be contacted by email at maxs.fashions@yahoo.com or by mobile phone at +66 (089)-4020775.

Filed under : Thailand

6 Comments »