Asia Travel News Commentary, Reviews, and Insights

Last month, the Cabinet of the Government of Nepal approved the re-opening of the seven jungle lodges located within Chitwan National Park. The lodges had been ordered closed by the government after their lease expired. The lodges were forced to cancel all bookings and move guests to lodges outside the Park. After five months of closure, the lodges have been allowed to reopen, but the lease is still yet to be negotiated. Two of the most prominent lodges affected were the Tiger Tops Lodge and Machan Lodge. Signs are that all stakeholders (the lodges, employees, government, local communities, and the national park) are all getting involved. So, let’s hope for a good outcome for everyone.

Filed under : Nepal, Socially Responsible Tourism

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We’re ready  to go with next year’’s Climb for Himalaya Children of Mt. Rainier. The climb will take place from July 15th to 17 in 2010. Please visit the Red Lantern Journeys web site for complete details about participating and how to register for the climb. As of January 1st, we have 10 people registered. That means only 10 more spots are available, so if you’re interested, sign up soon!

If you’re looking for a little motivation, check out this short video of last year’s climb:

Click to Watch!

Filed under : Climb for Himalaya Children, Nepal, Socially Responsible Tourism, Trekking and Climbing

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CHC 2009 Participants on Mt. Rainier Summit

I’d personally like to thank REI for providing our tents, and free rental gear for the participants. I’d also like to thank Richmoore Foods for providing freeze-dried meals for participants. And, a special thanks to Dan Ansbaugh, who worked diligently to find our sponsors and promote the climb.

Filed under : Nepal, Socially Responsible Tourism, Trekking and Climbing

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Check out my article on Nepal and the Mitrata Orphanage in the Go section of the June, 2009 issue of the Arc Magazine.  I write about my last trip there in March and some of the amazing things to do there besides go trekking and climbing mountains! Read the article here:

Nepal Article in the Arc Magazine

Also, the Give section of the same issue of the Arc Magazine features the Red Lantern Journeys Climb for Himalaya Children, a benefit climb of Mt. Rainier that raises money for the Mitrata Orphanage in Kathmandu. Please check it out, and if you’re interested in making a tax deductible donation, please go to the Mitrata web site.

Filed under : Nepal, Socially Responsible Tourism

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At the direction of the Nepal Forest Ministry, Chitwan National Park has forced all 7 lodges located within its boundaries to close because they have been unable to renegotiate a contract that expired on July 16th of this year. Word from a local tour operator, says that the lodges owe the government some tax money and that’s part of why they haven’t been able to negotiate a new contract. Speculation is that until the money is paid, the lodges will remain closed indefinitely.

What’s the effect of this? There are about 87 lodges located just outside of Chitwan National Park that are not affected and they have taken on the clients of the closed lodges. Safaris and tours into the park are still allowed.

The closed lodges include: Tiger Tops, Machan Wildlife Resort, Temple Tiger, Narayan Safari, Gaida Wildlife Camp, Island Jungle Resort, and the Chitwan Jungle Lodge.

Filed under : Nepal

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Although China hasn’t made an official announcement, probably because they want to avoid publicity, Red Lantern Journeys’ Tibet, Nepal, and China partners have been letting us know that Tibet permits are not being granted for travel in March. From what we can tell, this affects entry to Tibet from both China and Nepal.

The reason? March is the 50th anniversary of the Dalai Lamai leaving Tibet to escape the Chinese invasion. It’s also the 1 year anniversary of the Tibet riots prior to the Olympics last year. China seems to be taking preemptive action in anticipation of needing to crackdown on any new protests. They don’t want tourist using their digital cameras and camera phones to take photos and video of anything that could look bad.

I hope the closure of Tibet will be brief. From what we can tell, it’s only March that is planned for now.  However if protests and uprisings occur, expect China to close Tibet for as long as they deem necessary.

Filed under : China, Nepal, Tibet, Trekking and Climbing

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The Dwarika’s Hotel  in Kathmandu is located 20 minutes from the airport and is within walking distance to the famous Hindu temple, Pashupatinath. It fronts a busy avenue and doesn’t look like much from the outside. However, once you enter, you are transported into a serene and splendid atmosphere of terracotta bricks and hand-carved wood that contrasts greatly from the busy street outside. The hotel was designed to showcase the ancient craftsmanship and art saved from destruction by the founder Dwarikas Das Shrestha to ensure it’s upkeep in a commercially viable manner. What resulted is a luxurious and unique setting that truly deserves its heritage hotel status.

The entry is via a small, covered pullout from the main street from which you enter the hotel into an open air courtyard that looks out on the hotel grounds. Concierge staff are there ready to assist you and direct you to the reception area and indoor lounge appointed with elegant furniture.

The hotel hosts two restaurants. Krishnarpan is a renowned Nepalese restaurant specializing in Nepalese cuisine presented in set meals of 6 to 20 courses. These meals attract many not staying at the hotel—especially trekkers and climbers looking for a splurge after their expeditions. The Toran offers Continental, Chinese, and Nepalese dishes in an elegant atmosphere. Alfresco breakfasts are available in the courtyard terrace restaurant.

Two bars offer contrasting atmospheres. The Library bar is what you might expect, a relaxing, quiet atmosphere among books and comfortable chairs surrounded by brick walls inset with shelves of traditionally carved wood—a great place for meeting and planning Himalaya adventures. It also screens nightly movies and documentaries for guests. The Fusion bar overlooks the pool, provides a pool table and darts, and offers live Jazz and Blues performances.

The small pool looks more like a fountain or ancient bath and is more appropriate for sunbathing than swimming. Massages are offered in room as the sauna/spa facility was not yet completed at the time of inspection. There is no fitness center. The House of Treasure gift shop sells handicrafts and souvenirs. A full-service travel agency is also available onsite.

A business center provides office equipment such as facsimile, photocopying machines, email and internet access. Full secretarial service is also available. A conference hall can accommodate 100 people. Though very few tourists would ever consider driving in Kathmandu, a small parking lot is available across the street from the hotel.

An elevator is available for rooms on the upper floors in the main building. A wide hallway separates the street side wall of the hotel from the rooms, so street noise is not noticeable. Rooms are very spacious and uniquely decorated with beautifully carved furniture, area carpets, and hand-woven fabrics with traditional Nepalese designs. Each room contains a daybed, coffee table, and a desk with a telephone and data ports for internet access. Televisions would be an intrusion to these rooms and are not included, but can be requested. Beds are either 4-poster king-sized or two twins.

The baths are also very large. In the newest wing of the hotel, each bath contains two sinks and a large sunken tub with separate shower and fine toiletries.

The buildings with rooms are two stories high and all rooms look out onto the inner, beautifully landscaped courtyard. The presidential suite is a multi-tiered ensemble of floors with lots of windows and outside terraces, all of which create a spacious feeling, but are not necessarily the best use of space.

All rooms are smoke free. Only tea, coffee, and snacks are available via room service. The staff is truly friendly, well-trained, and helpful.

This hotel outshines all others in Kathmandu for its architectural charm, art, and museum-quality craftsmanship and attention to detail. While not the best location for souvenir shopping or mingling with the trekking crowds, shuttle services are provided, and taxis are cheap and plentiful. The Yak and Yeti or the Hyatt near the airport have the corner on big, western-style hotel luxury and amenities, but most travelers go to Nepal for the kind of cultural experience you can only get at Dwarika’s.

For more information: www.dwarikas.com

Filed under : Hotel Reviews, Nepal

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My company, Red Lantern Journeys, is the main sponsor and organizer of 3 Summits for Nepal’s Children. 2008 is our third year of climbing volcanos in the Northwest to raise money for charities that serve children in need in Nepal. This year we climbed Mt. Hood in Oregon, Mt. Rainier in Washington State, and for the first time, a mountain in Nepal, the 21,000-foot Chulu West. A total of 25 participants raised $13,810 this year to break our previous fundraising records. Over the last 3 years we’ve raised over $30,000!

The funds raised have gone to the Mitrata Orphanage and the Children’s Center for Study and Development, both in Kathmandu. I’m on Mitrata’s board of directors and can’t say enough about the organization and the work they are doing with their children.

Bill Harrison, the leader of the Chulu West Expedition and fundraiser for Mitrata, took the photos to the right when the 5-member team visited the orphanage prior to departing for the Annapurna region on October 12th.

I’ll keep you posted on our plans for next year, but I may be doing a Red Lantern Journeys ”President’s Adventure” in Ladhak in Northern India with a side trip to Kathmandu to visit the Mitrata Orphanage.

Filed under : Nepal, Trekking and Climbing

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Trekking and climbing are my passions. I’ve been a volunteer mountaineering instructor for over 20 years now. I stay well trained and our Red Lantern Journeys trekking agencies in Nepal, Bhutan, and Tibet have well-trained guides. It’s important to me that the safety of our clients is a number 1 priority. Training is important and it came to good use for me and a group of my friends last weekend. Read on…

On a mountaineering outing in the Olympic Mountains in Washington State, our climbing group (9 of us!) was eight miles from the trailhead when we encountered a climber (Jeff) running towards us down a snow slope. He managed to explain that his partner (Jake) was injured badly in a 500-foot fall down a gully and needed help. After getting the details about where the injured climber would be, Bill Harrison and I immediately took off to find him with our full-packs and a climbing rope. Len Kannapell went with Jeff to find the ranger that was stationed in the nearby basin or to hike out for help if they couldn’t find her. Luckily for everyone involved, they found her in less then 10 minutes–helping some researchers trap and tag marmots. She (21-year-old Bridgett Jamison) had a radio and was immediately able to call for a helicoptor. Len, Jeff, and Bridgett immediately followed us to look for the injured climber and eventually caught up with us in the bottom of the gully that the injured climber was in. The others in our group followed us and took charge of making camp and were there ready to provide backup if needed.

After mucking around the bottom of the gully on steep scree slopes, moats with waterfalls, and steep snow, we finally spotted Jake about 300 feet above us between some steep snow in the gully and the cliffs. Len and I climbed up some rocks and had to rappel down 60 feet to reach him. Bill came a few minutes later with extra gear and a heavy duty space blanket. He went back down to be with Jeff and in a position on a small knoll about 300 below us to provide support as neccessary. Bridgett then joined Len and I after using her radio to help guide the helicoptors to us. We stayed with him, monitoring his vital signs and trying to keep him warm until the helicoptors could do their thing. While we were with him, he was concious and moving his arms and legs but couldn’t speak. We had found him about three and a half hours after encountering Jeff, but by that time it was near 8 pm.

The first helicoptor showed up just before we found him,  but it took a few minutes for them to locate us. They had to leave once to refuel, returned an hour and 15 minutes later but were too heavy to maneuver safely in the narrow confines of the gully, so left again to lighten their load. They came back right at dusk, but despite a good try, their tether was not long enough to reach us. Fortunately, the Emergency Operations Center had called in a Navy helicoptor from the Whidbey Island Naval Air Station as a backup…it was a Blackhawk. So it came in to try and reach us, found out they too were too heavy to maneuver, left to lighten their load, and returned 15 minutes later.

Each time a helicoptors hovered over us, it blasted us with cold winds and blowing dust and rocks from it’s downdraft. But each time it left, our hearts dropped–not knowing for sure if it would come back that evening, forcing us to spend a cold night in the gully with Jake.

Finally, the Blackhawk was able to lower a Search and Rescue guy with a litter down to us, bouncing off the cliff walls before he was able to scamper over to us. We got Jake on the litter, strapped him in and they were able to lift him off. By that time it was after 11 pm and quite dark. It took us another hour and a half to climb up out of the gully and hike over to the camp where the rest of our group was waiting for us with food and water.

Our group provided sleeping bags and tent room for Jeff and Bridgett. The next day after retrieving all of the gear from the rescue site, we all hiked out the 9 or 10 miles to our cars where we were finally able to nurse our sore legs and feet and deliver Jeff to his very worried parents.

Jake had fallen several hundred feet down that steep gully and his last impact knocked off his helmet. He was taken to Harborview Hospital with a serious brain injury, but amazingly no broken bones, except some cracked vertebrae. He was in a medically/drug induced coma for the first few days and on a respirator. They had to drill holes in his skull to help reduce the swelling. But the last report is that he is responding and they will be removing his medication and respirator.

We were all amazed that the rescue could be done by helicoptor from the steep narrow gully that we were in, and then at night to boot! We were told later that the first Coast Guard helicoptor had a pilot who was inexperienced and was uncertain about the close quarters and that was why they had to leave. The Navy Helicoptor pilot was really skilled, even using night vision goggles that have poor depth perception. At one point, his rotors were 5 feet from the cliffs as he was lowering the rescuer and litter to us.

Jeff is still only 17 years old, but he really is the hero in all of this. He kept his cool–helping his friend by putting him on a pad and covering him with sleeping bags to keep him warm and leaving some food and water within reach. He made the right decision to go out alone and get help right away. Somehow he managed to climb alone the rest of the way down that dangerous gully—he even fell once and slid 100 feet and banged up his knee a bit. But he continued and after encountering our group returned with us to the accident scene. As a result of his efforts, his friend was evacuated the same day from that very remote location. His Hurculean efforts may have very well saved Jake’s life.

KIRO TV News interviewed me, the helicoptor crew, Jeff, and Jake’s parents, and they have an article and video on their web site:

http://www.kirotv.com/news/16825702/detail.html

Here are some of my photos from that trip and the rescue.

http://www.redlanternjourneys.com/galleries/index.php?cat=8

The climbing club I’m affiliated with is the Boeing Employees’ Alpine Society (Boealps), which has yearly Basic and Intermediate mountaineering classes open to the general public. These classes are the best of their kind in the Pacific Northwest.

Filed under : Nepal, Trekking and Climbing

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Following the riots and demonstrations, China promised to open Tibet by May 1st. They finally got around to it on June 24th, 2008, three days after the Olympic Torch was carried through the empty streets of Lhasa. Although Chinese tourists have been allowed to travel since April, the extended ban on travel there has no doubt hurt the local economy. China is more strict about their travel rules. It used to be that a tourist could travel around on their own a bit once they got into Tibet. Now you need to be accompanied by a guide on an itinerary arranged by a travel agent and deviations won’t go over well.

China’s leaders don’t seem to understand the West; but the West doesn’t understand China either. Typical Chinese people are extremely proud of their country and believe that Tibet is historically part of it. It’s not just the government…Note that since the Tibet riots, many Chinese on instant messenger programs like Yahoo and MSN started using a symbol of solidarity, like an “I Heart China” symbol next to their name. It’s a reaction to the negative press about China that they see around the world. I believe that nationalism taken to an extreme is usually bad. It’s fine to be proud of your country, but not at the expense of other countries or even your own citizens. The Chinese government doesn’t seem to get that.

If You Travel to Tibet
There are only two ways to get into Tibet–either via Nepal or China. My general travel recommendation for Tibet is that trekkers going to Mt. Kailash or Mt. Everest Base Camp should go via Nepal. You’ll be able to hire much better Sherpa guides with better equipment and cooks than you can get in Tibet. For cultural tours, going through either China or Nepal is ok. If you do go, take a lot of photos of the hundreds of ruins of destroyed monasteries and encroaching Chinese culture. Send me some and I’ll post them here.

Filed under : China, Nepal, Tibet

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