Asia Travel News Commentary, Reviews, and Insights

After my last trip to Vietnam in January, 2009, I wrote an article about the mountain village of Sapa that was published in the new indie-focused arts web site called The Arc Magazine. Be sure to visit the site and subscribe to the magazine. It only comes out once every two months, and you won’t get on any spam lists.

Richele Kuhlmann is the founder and editor of The Arc Magazine. However, she is also a professional photographer and musician and composer based in Seattle, Washington. She created The Arc Magazine out of a genuine desire to share inspiring stories about creative and talented people along with information about worthwhile causes and organizations.

Richele was also the first employee at Red Lantern Journeys. We were sad to see her go last spring to pursue her other interests, but clearly she is a uniquely talented person and will accomplish great things in her life.

Filed under : Vietnam

0 Comment »

Delhi International Airport Limited announced that beggining March 1, 2009, they will begin levying a fee of 1,300 Rupees (about $27 US) on international passengers and 200 Rupees (about $4 US) on domestic passengers at the Indira Gandhi International Airport.

The purpose of the fee is to make up for funding shortfalls for the development of a new airport and is intended to last for 36 months. Evidentlly, it will be like an airport departure tax payable in cash at the airport for departing passengers.

The Mumbai International Airport has also requested permission to begin charging fees as well. They’ve proposed 1,000 Rupees ($20 US) for international passengers and 375 Rupees ($8 US) for domestic passengers.

Here’s an ariticle in the Hindu Business Line:

http://www.thehindubusinessline.com/2009/02/10/stories/2009021052170100.htm

Filed under : India

0 Comment »

I traveled to Hanoi in January for the ASEAN Tourism Form. The evening before flying out, I broke the corner off a molar while eating my mom’s leftover peanut brittle from the Christmas holidays…that left no time to find a dentist. I went to to a grocery store to find anything to protect the hole in my tooth and my tongue from the sharp edges. I couldn’t find anything, so I decided to use a tea candle to melt some wax to put on the tooth. Despite coming out periodically, it worked!

After 20 hours of flights and layovers, I arrived in Hanoi in the late evening and checked into my hotel. I asked if they knew of a dentist I could go to. The night staff didn’t seem to know…perhaps there was dentist nearby. The next morning I was free, so devoted it to finding a dentist. The hotel staff seemed to be a bit more helpful this time and suggested I go to a clinic with foreign doctors and dentists they new of. I got in a taxi and hightailed it over there, only to be told that the earliest they could fit me in for a dental appointment was 3 days later. Not good enough. My tongue was starting to get quite raw from the sharp edges of the tooth.

Back at the hotel, I consulted with the front desk staff again. This time, they looked in the phone book and found another hostpital with dentists who could handle English-speaking foreigners. We called, but the earliest they could make an appointment was Monday morning…I accepted, hoping I could use the candle wax until then. I had brought a couple of extra tea candles so had plenty of wax–despite a tendency to swallow it at every meal.

I still had a couple of hours to kill before my first meetings so decided to explore the neighborhood around my hotel. Just a block away, I found a tiny, 1-chair dental office. I saw a pair of shoes outside the sliding glass entrance door, so took mine off before entering. A young woman inside motioned me to take a seat in the dental chair and then promptly disappeared. As I sat there alone, I looked around at the equipment–perhaps 1950s vintage and a bit grimy and worse for wear–hoping that I wasn’t making a mistake. But within a few minutes she returned with another woman, who was the dentist.

Fortunately, the dentist could speak some English, although not much. She leaned me back in the antique dental chair and shined the light into my mouth. She quickly saw the problem and proceeded to clean out the gaping hole in my tooth. Fortunately, I hadn’t seemed to break it close to any nerves and there was not much pain. Once cleaned, she whipped up a little cement paste and filled in the hole and told me to rinse. The whole procedure took ten minutes. She then took out her cell phone and called someone….managing to tell me her friend could speak better English and would explain things to me. I got on the cell phone and her friend informed me that this was just a temporary fix to my tooth and that I would need to have a permanent repair done when I returned to my home country.

That was it. No more than 20 minutes total including wait time. But now it was time to pay the bill. The dentist told me something…I thought she said 30,000 Dong, the Vietnamese currency. When I took that out of my wallet to give to her, she shook her head no. She wanted 50,000 Dong! Being a bit flustered and not being able to calculate the exchange rate well on short noticed, I decided to just give it to her, thanking her profusely. As I walked out the door and down the street back to my hotel, I figured out what it had just cost me in US dollars–at 17,000 Dong to the dollar, I had just paid her a paltry $3.

I’m back home in Seattle now, but still haven’t seen a dentist–mainly because I don’t have dental insurance. The temporary fix is doing well still. I’m also planning my next trip to Asia…India and Nepal in April. A little dental adventure in Rajasthan could be just what the doctor ordered. I hope the temporary fix lasts until then!

Filed under : Vietnam

0 Comment »

The protesters at the Bangkok airports are shutting down an entire country. They’ve trapped 350,000 foreign travelers who are becoming angrier by the day. Business losses are mounting and will total in the tens if not hundreds of millions of dollars. The orchid industry alone estimates that it will lose US$23 million if Suvarnabhumi Airport remains closed until December 10. Without a doubt, tens of millions will be lost by the tourism and hospitality industry.

But this conflict is being handled in an unprecedented way. In most countries, including the US, force would have been used to clear out protesters and open up the lanes of commerce. Remember the 1999 WTO Riots in Seattle? Police clashed with rioters just for the heck of it. Nothing was resolved, yet a lot of businesses were disrupted. But in Thailand, the police and army are not going in with their with tanks and guns.

Why? The current prime minister, Somchai, does not have the support of the King or the army, and that matters in Thailand. Also, everyone seems to be waiting for the results of an electoral fraud case against the ruling coalition parties that is being heard by the Thai Constitutional Court. On Tuesday, the Court will hear closing arguments and a ruling could come as early as sometime this week.

If found guilty, the ruling coalition parties would be dissolved and a new government formed–achieving the objectives of the protesters. The protesters would disappear and life would return to normal, although divisions between the rural and urban districts within Thailand will intensify.

What if the ruling coalition parties are found innocent? If Somchai doesn’t resign from the pressure of the protesters, expect more turmoil, and perhaps new elections.

If you travel to Thailand in the near future, you’ll be sure to get an education on how a country can use restraint and still solve problems. The country is worth a visit sometime during your lifetime…but if you go in the near future, be sure to buy travel insurance!!!

P.S. My next posting will be about travel insurance and whether events like this and the attacks in Mumbai would be covered.

Filed under : Socially Responsible Tourism, Thailand

2 Comments »

Today, November 20, is Universal Children’s Day. The International Labour Organization estimates that there are 218 million children worldwide engaged in labor, while millions are vulnerable to exploitation and abuse. I support the efforts of the United Nations World Tourism Organization (UNWTO) to build awareness and with a special focus on Asia where the problems are especially acute. My company, Red Lantern Journeys, is dedicated to spreading the awareness because we arrange travel to some of the countries that have the worst problems. Child labor prevents societies from educating their people. Ignorance is never acceptable and results in vulnerabilities that will be exploited by those seeking power or wealth. Click the following link to view the video prepared by the UNWTO Protect the Children Campaign:

Protect Children Video

Filed under : Socially Responsible Tourism

0 Comment »

The Dwarika’s Hotel  in Kathmandu is located 20 minutes from the airport and is within walking distance to the famous Hindu temple, Pashupatinath. It fronts a busy avenue and doesn’t look like much from the outside. However, once you enter, you are transported into a serene and splendid atmosphere of terracotta bricks and hand-carved wood that contrasts greatly from the busy street outside. The hotel was designed to showcase the ancient craftsmanship and art saved from destruction by the founder Dwarikas Das Shrestha to ensure it’s upkeep in a commercially viable manner. What resulted is a luxurious and unique setting that truly deserves its heritage hotel status.

The entry is via a small, covered pullout from the main street from which you enter the hotel into an open air courtyard that looks out on the hotel grounds. Concierge staff are there ready to assist you and direct you to the reception area and indoor lounge appointed with elegant furniture.

The hotel hosts two restaurants. Krishnarpan is a renowned Nepalese restaurant specializing in Nepalese cuisine presented in set meals of 6 to 20 courses. These meals attract many not staying at the hotel—especially trekkers and climbers looking for a splurge after their expeditions. The Toran offers Continental, Chinese, and Nepalese dishes in an elegant atmosphere. Alfresco breakfasts are available in the courtyard terrace restaurant.

Two bars offer contrasting atmospheres. The Library bar is what you might expect, a relaxing, quiet atmosphere among books and comfortable chairs surrounded by brick walls inset with shelves of traditionally carved wood—a great place for meeting and planning Himalaya adventures. It also screens nightly movies and documentaries for guests. The Fusion bar overlooks the pool, provides a pool table and darts, and offers live Jazz and Blues performances.

The small pool looks more like a fountain or ancient bath and is more appropriate for sunbathing than swimming. Massages are offered in room as the sauna/spa facility was not yet completed at the time of inspection. There is no fitness center. The House of Treasure gift shop sells handicrafts and souvenirs. A full-service travel agency is also available onsite.

A business center provides office equipment such as facsimile, photocopying machines, email and internet access. Full secretarial service is also available. A conference hall can accommodate 100 people. Though very few tourists would ever consider driving in Kathmandu, a small parking lot is available across the street from the hotel.

An elevator is available for rooms on the upper floors in the main building. A wide hallway separates the street side wall of the hotel from the rooms, so street noise is not noticeable. Rooms are very spacious and uniquely decorated with beautifully carved furniture, area carpets, and hand-woven fabrics with traditional Nepalese designs. Each room contains a daybed, coffee table, and a desk with a telephone and data ports for internet access. Televisions would be an intrusion to these rooms and are not included, but can be requested. Beds are either 4-poster king-sized or two twins.

The baths are also very large. In the newest wing of the hotel, each bath contains two sinks and a large sunken tub with separate shower and fine toiletries.

The buildings with rooms are two stories high and all rooms look out onto the inner, beautifully landscaped courtyard. The presidential suite is a multi-tiered ensemble of floors with lots of windows and outside terraces, all of which create a spacious feeling, but are not necessarily the best use of space.

All rooms are smoke free. Only tea, coffee, and snacks are available via room service. The staff is truly friendly, well-trained, and helpful.

This hotel outshines all others in Kathmandu for its architectural charm, art, and museum-quality craftsmanship and attention to detail. While not the best location for souvenir shopping or mingling with the trekking crowds, shuttle services are provided, and taxis are cheap and plentiful. The Yak and Yeti or the Hyatt near the airport have the corner on big, western-style hotel luxury and amenities, but most travelers go to Nepal for the kind of cultural experience you can only get at Dwarika’s.

For more information: www.dwarikas.com

Filed under : Hotel Reviews, Nepal

2 Comments »

While the US-based airlines have begun charging for checked luggage, Asia-based airlines have not yet gone to the that extreme. However, the local airlines may have more restrictive luggage allowances for their domestic flights than the internationial flights you take to and from the US to get there. The most typical restriction on domestic flights in Asia is 20 Kilograms (44 lbs.) per person, compared to a 2-bag, 32 kg. (70 lbs.) for international flights to get to Asian gateway cities from the US and Canada.

Here’s a breakdown of the domestic luggage allowances for different airlines in Asia:

China:

All Domestic Airlines

Carry-on baggage
The maximum Carry-on baggage allowance for each economy class passenger is 5kg. First class passengers can have 2 pieces of carry on luggage. All other passengers can carry on only one piece. The size may not exceed 20×40x55cm. Carry on baggage in excess of the limit is subject to an excess baggage fee and must be carried as checked baggage.

Check-in Baggage
Adults and children are entitled to a free checked baggage allowance of 40kg, for first class, 30kg, for business class, and 20kg, for economy class while traveling on domestic airlines in China. No free baggage allowance is granted to infants. Groups traveling together are able to combine their baggage allowance if they check in together.

SE Asia:

Thai Airways (luggage restrictions)

Checked Baggage:
Economy Class passengers:           20 kg. (44 lbs.)
Royal Executive Class passengers: 30 kg. (66 lbs.)
Royal First Class passengers:         40 kg. (88 lbs.)

Royal Orchid Plus Gold Card members are entitled to check an additional 20 kg. (44 lbs.). Royal Orchid Plus Silver Card members can check an additional 10 kg. (22 lbs.) of luggage.

Infants (not occupying a seat) are allowed 10 kg. (22 lbs.) excluding one fully-collapsible child stroller, pushchair, or infant-carrying basket.

Cabin Baggage: Maximum weight is 7 Kg. (15.4 lbs).

Bangkok Air (and Siem Reap Airways) (luggage restrctions)
Checked Baggage: Maximum weight is 20 kg. for adult and child / 10 kg. for an infant
Cabin Baggage: Maximum weight is 5 kg. (11 lbs).

Vietnam Airlines (luggage restrictions)
Checked Baggage:
Business Class: maximum 30 kg. of checked baggage (number of bags isn’t regulated).
Economy Class: maximum 20 kg. of checked baggage (number of bags isn’t regulated).

Cabin Baggage: 1 piece, 7 Kg. (15.4 lbs) in economy class; 2 pieces, 7 kg. (15.4 lbs) each piece.

Bhutan:

Druk Air
Checked Baggage:
Economy: maximum 20 Kg. (44 lbs) subject to 2 suitcase-sized pieces per passenger.
Executive: maximum 30 Kg. (66 lbs) subject to 2 suitcase-sized pieces per passenger.

Cabin Baggage: 1 bag, the weight of which is included in the overall weight restrictions.

India

Jet AirwaysChecked Baggage:
Economy: 25 kg. (55 lbs) per person, largest bag no more than 32 Kg. (70.4 lbs)
Premiere: 35 kg. (77 lbs) per person, largest bag no more than 32 Kg. (70.4 lbs)

Cabin Baggage:
1 hand bag, 7 kg. (15 lbs.), plus 1 laptop bag or purse

Kingfisher Airlines

Checked Baggage:
Kingfisher First: 35 kg/77 lb
Kingfisher Class: 25 kg/55 lb
Kingfisher Red: 15 kg/33 lb

Cabin Baggage:
1 hand bag, 7 kg. (15 lbs.), plus 1 laptop bag or purse

Indian Airlines

Myanmar

All domestic airlines:
Maximum Baggage Allowance: 20 Kg. (44 lbs) per person

Filed under : Cambodia, China, India, Myanmar, Thailand

2 Comments »

My company, Red Lantern Journeys, is the main sponsor and organizer of 3 Summits for Nepal’s Children. 2008 is our third year of climbing volcanos in the Northwest to raise money for charities that serve children in need in Nepal. This year we climbed Mt. Hood in Oregon, Mt. Rainier in Washington State, and for the first time, a mountain in Nepal, the 21,000-foot Chulu West. A total of 25 participants raised $13,810 this year to break our previous fundraising records. Over the last 3 years we’ve raised over $30,000!

The funds raised have gone to the Mitrata Orphanage and the Children’s Center for Study and Development, both in Kathmandu. I’m on Mitrata’s board of directors and can’t say enough about the organization and the work they are doing with their children.

Bill Harrison, the leader of the Chulu West Expedition and fundraiser for Mitrata, took the photos to the right when the 5-member team visited the orphanage prior to departing for the Annapurna region on October 12th.

I’ll keep you posted on our plans for next year, but I may be doing a Red Lantern Journeys ”President’s Adventure” in Ladhak in Northern India with a side trip to Kathmandu to visit the Mitrata Orphanage.

Filed under : Nepal, Trekking and Climbing

0 Comment »

Quality accommodation in New Delhi is becoming hard to get these days. Tourism and business has increased so much over the last 5 years causing a dire shortage of quality hotels, especially in the 4 and 5 star range. This shortage has driven up prices, which now rival those in London or New York City.

As a result, the government has passed laws to encourage local homeowners to become licensed to operate as bed and breakfasts, or homestays. In September, I was fortunate to experience one of these new bed and breakfasts, the Saubhag Bed and Breakfast in the New Rajinder Nagar district of West Delhi.

It’s operated by Mrs. Meera Das, a former teacher. She is a wonderful host and will have her staff prepare a wonderful breakfast, do your laundry, and make sure you have everything you need during your stay. She doesn’t like to accept just anyone off the street into her home, so it’s best to get an introduction if possible…If you book your trip with Red Lantern Journeys, we can do that for you.

Her home itself is in a nice, safe neighborhood, just a 15-minute drive from Connaught Place. It’s three stories high with a beautiful garden courtyard where you can enjoy your breakfast. The 2nd floor has two guest rooms with attached modern bathrooms and comfortable beds. There is a common living room for the guest as well with a side kitchen where you can make coffee or tea or heat something in the microwave. The guest living room is tastefully furnished and has a library of books to select from to take with you on your travels. A computer with internet access is standing by for you to catch up on your emails in the evening.

All in all, I’d say that the Saubhag Bed and Breakfast was nicer than any 3 star and many 4 star hotels in India in terms of quality of accommodations, furnishings, and bathrooms. The only thing that you won’t get is a swimming pool or a business center. However, the service that you get is going to be so much better.

I’ve heard and read about many other exceptional bed and breakfasts in New Delhi and other parts of India. We also stayed in another home stay in Palakaad district of Kerala–a 200-year-old ancestral home that I’ll write about later…

Filed under : Hotel Reviews, India

1 Comment »

I was just in India on a trip with 8 other travel agents from various countries including Canada, Poland, France, Australia, and India. We were touring Kerala after attending the Kerala Travel Mart. Normally, I don’t like traveling with people in a group…I’m more of a loner and like to experience things on my own terms. This trip helped me understand why. We were staying at a 200-year-old ancestral home that had been converted to a guest house. The owner, a wonderful host, had requested that, as we were visiting the local community, we not give anything to the local children; that giving money, candy, or pens encourages begging. He said that if we felt the need to help these chldren, that we could deposit money in a box in his house that would be used to help fund the needs of a local school he helped support. I agreed and was of the opinion that all enlightened tourists, especially experienced travelers like travel agents, understood that handing out anything was really just exploiting the locals.

I was wrong. Our group was visiting a village potter to see a demonstration of how they make the local clay pots.  One Polish woman in our group had brought candy from home and handed it out to the village children so that she could take picures of them…I asked her to stop, citing the requests of our host…but she thought he was just talking about giving money, not candy or pens.

Later in the trip, our group was touring the Backwaters of Kerala and taking a smaller boat through some narrow waterways lined by local houses. Our Indian host of the tour, had brought a bag full of pens and started throwing them to local kids of school age. Soon we were being followed by every kid around…essentially, we could no longer enjoy the normally serene boat ride. Our host, a vice president of one of India’s largest tour operators, wasa encouraging begging in his own country! I cringed when I saw it and complained to him later about it, but I don’t know if it went took root or not.

Giving handouts to children is a persistent problem. If you want to help the locals in the places that you are visiting, please give to an organization that has the ability to ensure your efforts go to a good cause.

Filed under : India

0 Comment »